Friday, December 5, 2008

Staircase to Sunset

Does anyone remember being outrageously inspired by movies when they were young? After watching ‘Kickboxer’ I spent a few days trying to kick down every tree in my mom’s garden— I wanted to BE Jean Claude Van Damme.
Same story with Indiana Jones. I wore a dusty Stetson I found in the garage and terrorized my old Labrador for weeks, whipping her with a school tie.
I spent a few hours writing rap songs and pretending my dad was Uncle Phill after watching ‘The Fresh Prince of Bell Air’ for the first time. To try and look more like Will Smith, I wore an old cap the made my ears stick out. Anyways, you see what I mean?

It took around ten minutes to clear the sleep from my eyes this morning. I was still up at 3:30 this morning, watching the O’Neil World Cup of Surfing. South Africans Jordy Smith, Greg Emslie and David Weare had me standing on my seat and screaming at the computer. The waves at Sunset Beach were unholy and monstrous. Emslie and Weare secured their place on the 2009 WCT by making the quarter finals, and Smith blitzed through to the final.

When the final heat was over, I felt just like a kid after a good action movie. Hopped up on coffee, I ran up and down the stairs pretending it was a 25 foot sunset beast and high fived myself.

Don’t take my word for it though. Check out www.triplecrownofsurfing.com and watch the footage. i got the cool picture of Dave Weare from www.aspworldtour.com.

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